The Caribbean
We were on passage between New Orleans and Jamaica when I had my first falling out with a member of the crew ;and it had to be a scouser I fell out with.
I forget the details of what led to our fisticuffs ,I had been given a particularly lousy job by the bosun ;he was?nt a bad man ,just liked his rum too much. I took umbrage at being given another lousy job to do and was having a few cross words with him . Stan, the Carpenter, came on the scene and tore into me for having a go at the bosun. I was stunned ,we had always got on well together and here he was getting steamed up and personal over my row with the bosun.
All would have been well if he had moved on and left it at calling me a ?sh*th*use? for rowing with the bosun. But ,Stan was from Scotland Road and was one from the school of hard knocks. ?Yew would?n? last five minutes on a Cunard boat, I bet yew don? sail outta Liverpool cos? yer f*ckin? yeller!?
This was said in front of the whole crew and I was lost for words. What was I to do?
I went and got cleaned up and then walkedt round to Stan?s cabin. I knocked the door and walked in ?What was that all about out there Stan?? I asked.
?Yew f*ck*n? heard ,yer one of those yeller bastids who bully old men? he yelled angrily.
I hit him and he dropped to the deck. I followed him down and was about to hit him again when I saw my fathers face . I pinioned him to the deck and said ? I don?t want to fight you Stan ;we should be mates? He looked up at me, all the **** and wind gone from his face.
?I?m going to let you up mate, it?s up to you what you do then ,but I?d rather not fight any more?
He stood up and looked at me, waiting to see what happened next. I gave him my hand
?Shake mate, I won?t tell anyone if you won?t, O.K.??
We shook hands , I left his cabin and neither of us ever spoke a word of it ,until now.
We were wary of each other for a few days and then slipped back into that old relationship of scouse banter. The bosun? He had?nt realised a thing ,he was always half soaked anyway!
I mentioned Arthur our JOS, he was a quietly humorous kid ,he had to have a small operation in one of the ports. It left him with half a left nipple and he took a bit of ribbing about it. Benjie , the guy who looked like the AB on the Players cigarette packet, fell in love with Arthur then ,much to the chagrin of Jeff his previous punk.
Poor Arthur was mortified to be the object of such ardent wooing, the rest of us kept a watching brief to see that it never got out of hand. I could?nt understand it then ,Benjie could have had any women he liked ,he preferred smooth bodied young sailors instead. Benjie never succeeded in his pursuit of Arthur and eventually picked up with Jeff again.
The chief cook was an old ?queen? who often dallied with Jeff and it was quite amusing to see Benjie and the chef vying for Jeffs favours. When the chef was getting his ?rations? our menu was very nice and extra egg for breakfast and meals that were as good as you would get in a nice restaurant. But if he and Jeff rowed????.it was back to basics.
We were going to a place that I had never heard of before, Port Eskervil, this is west of Kingston and was little more than a jetty and some molasses tanks. I have never been there since that time in 64? ,it was the nearest thing to paradise that I had ever seen. It is set in a large bay and was very sparsely populated. The beach had pale golden sands that were lapped by a sea of aquamarine and the land behind the beach was richly verdant and above it all was that empty blue sky with its glowing orb. Apart from the tug, that had helped us berth, and a few empty boats ,there was nothing to disturb that mirror smooth water.
We were the only sign of activity in that quietly peaceful place. We would a here for a few days ,there was nothing to do and nowhere to go so we relaxed and soaked up the gentle atmosphere. Apart from the noise of the pump and our usual ship sounds ,all was quiet, even the gulls seemed laid back. We were set to in giving the lifeboats a clean out ,we had to get rid of the stores for the dates were due up on them. We had lots of barley sugar sweets and ships biscuits ,all sealed in waterproof tins. It seemed a shame to dump them, and some of us would have gladly eaten those old stores , but in mid afternoon some spindly legged children from the village appeared on the quay. We were quite shocked by their appearance ,they seemed so undernourished and were looking at us with wide saucer eyes. Someone threw a tin of barley sugar to them, there were squeals of delight when they saw it and we then gave them all of the old stores. They were delightful children and they never fought for possession, everything was shared out between them. It was a joy to see them walking back to their village with their arms laden with such bounty. It was more like Africa there than a place in the New World. Not one of those kids had footwear and their clothes were threadbare, they could have been slave children. Such poverty in a place of great beauty.
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When we were down to our marks we set off for the USA once more , this time to Texas,
Galveston to be precise.
It was still winter when we shipped into Galveston Bay ,there was a bitterly cold northern wind blowing and I had been told that there was many a ship wrecked in these waters ,I could understand why when I saw the size of the waves out there in the bay.
We were docked in the poorer part of Galveston ,the area was mostly Mexican and the place had a seedy, run down look about it . We were all taken off for a medical examination, the man who came to pick us up looked like the stereotypical American cop. Snap brimmed panama ,Raybans, and a mackintosh . He was very brusque, ?Any o? you guys thinkin? o? makin? a break for it, fergit it ? he said bringing out a colt 45. ?Ah shoot to kill? We sat silent ,stunned at his display. He started to laugh and said ?I?m not really a Texan, I come from Limehouse ,relax lads.? He then drove us to the medical centre, it was very different from anything we had in England then. It was more like a resort hotel, a palm filled atrium and a small indoor pool in which there were fresh water fish. Muzak played softly from speakers giving a sense of relaxation. There were no pasty faced bronchiacs here.
Because we were British we were given the works, the NHS picked up the tab and we were passed from doctor to doctor who each had a slice of the Limey pie.
It was cold that night and I was the only soul to venture ashore to taste the delights of the Mexican quarter. I had never seen anywhere so bleak ,the bars that had patrons were quiet ,each man wrapped in his own thoughts. The juke boxes were full of Mexican records with a few Elvis songs among them, I progressed from bar to lonely bar, sipping some of Kentucky?s finest ,getting lonelier with each glass. I realised too late that I was well over my limit and started to head back to the ship, I felt a bit warmer , and that was?nt just the whiskey. If you have ever over imbibed you will know how I felt just then .I was a stranger in a strange town ,my steering gear was somewhat impaired and I staggered unsteadily back to where I thought I had come from. I was standing on the corner of god knows where ,looking for some sign of the docks ,when a female voice said ? My God son ,you look shot to hell? I turned and saw an old lady, she looked just like Tweety Pies keeper. ?C?mon here, I?ll give you a bite to eat, you?ll feel a lot better then? She was such a kindly lady that I followed without demur. She sat me at a table in a Mexican bar, her friend was sat there and she called the waiter over. She spoke something in Spanish to him and I was brought a cup of hot , black ,sweet coffee. Just the job, minutes later a hamburger arrived ,it was the size of a dinner plate and was served with a side order of salad. While I ate they told me a little about themselves, they were two widow ladies from Pasadena. One of them had come to settle her husbands estate at the lawyers office in Galveston ;they had decided to spend a few days there and Tweety?s grandma had bought a new car there. I was about halfway through my supper when Mark Morgan came in ,after greeting the ladies he whispered in my ear ?Brian, my muzzair eez not this old ,come back to ze ship? I laughed, not really understanding the import of what he had said. He refused the ladies offer of a drink and left the bar.
I had finished my supper and was given a bottle of Mexican beer when another of the crew appeared , little Willie Brennan,
He came up to the table and raised himself to his full five foot two inches, his finger tips just protruding from the sleeve of his jacket ,his neck sunk into a collar three sizes too big and his unruly hair plastered to his head with great dollops of brilliantine. His glasses ,with lens that looked like the bottoms of a bottle ,emphasised his likeness to a tortoise. Stepping forward he waxed eloquent. ?Ah Brian, wherever did you meet two such charming ladies?? Taking Grandma?s friends hand ,he raised to his lips and said ?Enchanted?
She near swooned, ? And I hope you?ll all join me in a small libation? he said calling the waiter. He ordered four beers and then turned back to the ladies.
?Would you be having a conveyance to take us back to our vessel? he crooned.
Grandma explained that she had a brand new auto and would be only too happy to take us back to the ship.
Willie had sat next to the friend and was holding her hand ,every now and then he would raise the back of it to his lips and smooch it; she just sat there cooing like a dove. She was as old as Willie and they were behaving like love?s young dreams.
When we finished our drinks Grandma took us out to her new car, a Chevrolet Impala coupe! It was two tone , metallic black with purple flashes down the side. She got in and lowered the ragtop, it was fabulous and smelled of new leather. Willie and his senorita got in the back seat and I sat on the passenger side of the front bench seat. We glided silkily on to the highway and I felt the car begin to roll with a gentle ,regular, motion. As trucks and buses passed us they gave us a blast on their horns and I was wondering why when I noticed a hairy little bottom in the rear view mirror, rising up and down on the back seat. I turned around and saw Willie going to town , his arse like a fiddlers elbow! When I sat back ,Grandma smiled at me and said ?I guess it?s time you paid for yo?re supper son!? I then realised what Mark had meant.
She pulled on to some waste ground and I could see the Athelcrest below us ,tantalisingly close.
?C?mon boy ,it?s payback time? she said pulling me to her. I was putty in her hands, I only wished that she had been fifty years younger. I paid for that supper in aces and ,when I got up to leave ,Willie was shouting ?Gambio? Spanish for change. I ran down the bank to the ship and left him to it.
Next morning there was no sign of Willie,I went to his cabin and found him still in his bunk. He was ruined ,he had climbed into the front seat and made love to Grandma and did his back in as he did so. He begged me not to tell anyone ,I promised him I would?nt ,as long as did?nt tell anyone about me.
We sailed upriver to Houston that afternoon, we would be there twenty four hours and so we would have a night there.
The passage there was up a very winding ship channel, it was not very memorable until we came across the Battleship Texas, she was in her own dock by Jacinto Bay and looked magnificent. It took a while to pass her and I sat rapt, I had never been that close to a battleship before and was truly astounded. Why oh why did?nt we British do the same.
We did?nt have the Belfast on display then, even so ,we had some mighty ships ,we could have saved a few more!
Houston was like tomorrow land. It was the first major city I had been to that had a full on one way road system ,the buildings were quite spectacular( I had?nt visited New York yet).
Everywhere looked like everywhere else, block after block of the sameness. Even downtown was superbland ,it all looked so new and without character.
We ended up in the cinema, not a ?nudie? this one had a British war film and the audience were very attentive. When the newsreels were shown there was an item of a British cargo ship that had been badly damaged in a storm off Florida. There were newsreels shots of the crew standing on the deck of this fast sinking vessel, they were awaiting the arrival of the US Coastguard but we never got to find out the end of the story. Our last view was of the men waving frantically as the plane soared by.(In October ?64 I sailed with one of the men who was rescued by the Coastguard)
When we were fully discharged we sailed to Puerto Rico where we would load more molasses. San Juan was our destination and none of the regular crew were happy about it. They said it was a wild place, well, we would find out soon.
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