Red China
Darkness had fallen by the time we had left our moorings, the shore lights of Victoria and Kowloon setting the harbour ablaze with colourful reflections. We were leaving the bright lights and heading for Tsientsin, Smiffy's old home town. The pilot was still aboard and we had to negotiate the great harbour ,filled with the many busy little vessels chugging to and fro across the now choppy waters. A fast launch was coming up astern of us ,it's klaxon blaring and a searchlight focussed on our bridgedeck ,flashing on and off. The engine slowed and then stopped and we lowered the gangway to receive our important visitor. Who the hell could be so important to prevent our passage to China? We gathered along the railing to gain sight of the V.I.P.. As soon as the launch came alongside the gangway a spritely little Chinaman in a lounge suit ran up to the head of the gangway and ,upon sighting our name board ,muttered drunkenly "Not Demodocus ?" and fled back down to the launch. Ah, those drunken orientals ,all Blue Funnel ships look alike to them.
We had to sail north ,through the Straits of Formosa ,now called Taiwan, and the Nationalist Chinese and the Red Chinese were in a state of constant warfare. Ships that passed through the Straits had to display a clear identification of where they were from and their name. We had great wooden signs that had on our name and a huge Union Flag. These were hung amidships on the port and starboard sides so that they would be visible to both sets of Chinese. Not that either side particularly liked us, the Korean war was still a recent memory and the Yangste incident had only happened ten years previously. We would be sailing through waters that were filled with a clear and present danger. Quemoy was the main target, this little island was subject to constant bombardment and we had to pass it . The signs hanging over the side were floodlit to ensure that our ID was visible at every hour of the day.
The balmy weather of southern China soon changed into a cold and rainy clime ,grey skies and grey seas, it was time for sou'westers and oilskins. I saw my first waterspouts as we sailed north , quite a bizarre sight ,there were dozens of them spread from horizon to horizon. In the grey light they too were grey, spinning towers of water that reached from the heaven to the stormy seas ,one of the wonders of the deep.
Our Chinese crew ,who had been very western in their attire and attitude ,started to wear the apparel that we were accustomed to seeing the Reds wearing , pictures of Chiang Kai Chek were being replaced on the cabin walls with those of Mao Tse Tung. We too were told to remove any nude pinups and to keep cameras out of sight and any binoculars were to be locked away in the Mates cabin. We were going to experience the delights of Red Chinese democracy. We anchored off Tsientsin on the morning of Good Friday, we could'nt go in because we were told that it was a holiday. Smiffy reckoned that they were being sarcastic and were taking a rise out of us by saying that it was a Peoples holiday ,showing their contempt for our effete Christian culture. Whatever, we were going to be stuck out side the harbour until Saturday morning. We had a big job to do anyway; the Antenor was carrying an enormous drill head ,reputedly the largest one yet made , and we had to get the Jumbo derrick ready, this was a very heavy lifting derrick ,capable of lifting 150 ton and that is why we were chosen to carry the drill head..
We spent the best part of the morning "breaking" it out and getting it guyed up. Just after we had turned to after lunch a young "middy" came tearing up the foredeck, his eye wide with panic and fear, mouth open in a silent scream. Lampy grabbed hold of him and tried to ask him what the matter was. The boy just gibbered and pointed aft, "N, number 5,n,number 5 " was all he could say. Lampy dashed off aft to number 5 hatch ,quickly followed by the rest of us. There we found another "middy" standing by the hatch ,a look of horror on his face. Looking over the coamings we saw the 2nd mate laying at the bottom of the empty hatch ,body like that of a broken marionette. The "middy" told us that the 2nd had slipped off the top rung of the ladder and had hit the propeller shaft housing before smashing to the lower deck.
A hatch board was lowered and the doctor and two deckhands went down with it to bring the poor man up. I never saw such care and tenderness displayed as I witnessed that day. Billy and Johnno gently lifted him to the board and the doctor set to work in assessing his wounds. He was taken to the bosuns mess and laid upon the table, barely alive ,his body being a broken mess. Signals were hoisted and radio messages despatched but the shore authorities insisted that nothing could be done until the holiday was over. That was still many hours away. The mood in our messroom at dinner was pretty murderous ,just next door a poor mans life was ebbing away because he needed the skills of a surgeon . I went into to see him when I had finished my meal, he was just about conscious, face bloated with bruising ,he managed a little smile and I felt a burning in my eyes, we were helpless and there ,not more than a mile away was a city with a hospital and doctors. I grinned weakly and muttered something encouraging.
We were roused from our bunks at midnight ,the Peoples holiday was over and they were graciously allowing us to enter port immediately for humanitarian purposes. We were alongside and moored up before the clock struck one, an old American army ambulance stood on the quay, the back doors open and a couple of squat faced attendants standing ready to take our 2nd to hospital. After Hong Kong and Singapore ,this place looked like hell.
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We awoke to the sound of martial music being played over loudspeakers ,the tune was ,I later found out ,"The East is Red". A very heavy piece, sounding like something by Mussorgsky rather than a Chinaman. We were to hear this music night and day during the length of our stay, and there was no escaping it ,there were loud speakers everywhere. We had to parade on the prom deck as soon as we were up, the PLA were there to inspect us ,and our cabins too.
Inspection over ,we had to attend to the job we were there for, get the drill head ashore.
A railway wagon stood on the quay awaiting its cargo ,cameramen were stationed to film the proceedings, this would be on their newsreels. Everyone ashore was dressed in kapok lined jackets and wore trousers to match, atop every head was the familiar Mao peaked cloth cap. Although the style of dress was universal the cloth it was made of differed with the rank of the wearer. The dockers wore cloth of the lowest quality ,checkers and tallymen wore something a little better ,policemen and and PLA men wore better still ,later that day we would see what the party bosses wore.
The drill head emerged fro the hatch like some monster rising from the deep,it was huge and you could hear the steel cables straining at its weight, slowly it rose until it was clear of the sides and then it was guyed out over the quay and then lowered into the cradle awaiting it on the railcar. Massive applause broke out from the assembled throng that viewed the spectacle ashore..
As the railcar pulled away an enormous parade took place,this was headed by a current model open topped Cadillac Eldorado, green and fawn two tone ,and seated atop the back seat like some presidential hopeful in a ticker tape parade ,was the local cadre dressed in the same style as his workers but in a suit of the finest cashmere. George Orwell saw it all many years before,wrote a book called Animal Farm and we were now in it.
The things that remain vivid in my mind are the lack of colour and the dinginess. There was an air of desolation and trampled hopes, no one was starving and everyone was clothed and shod, but you only saw the blue of their clothing ,the Brown of the PLA (Peoples Liberation Army) and the grey of the buildings, there were violent splashes of red ,these were the propaganda posters decrying the American Imperialists and their running dog lackeys ,us !
All the radio stations were jammed so the only music we heard was that mournful dirge The East is Red. We were glad to shake the dust of that place off our heels as we sailed for the Phillipines
Whilst on passage to Manila ,we were painting the deckhead on the promenade deck and I was standing athwart the taffrail to reach up with my brush when I slipped and landed heavily on that broad wooden rail. My coccyx took the full force of the impact and within a couple of days I developed a lump the size of a tennis ball there. The doctor said it was a combination of heavy bruising and the growth of a sebaceous cyst. Whatever it was, it was bloody painful and prevented me from working . The Bosun was none too happy because he could'nt find any light work for me to do. I was'nt too happy either because when we got to Manila I could'nt go ashore ,and this was reputed to be better than Singapore ,almost like the wild west the lads said ,and Silver City was supposed to be the wildest place this side of Panama. And all I could do was look from the taffrail. A doctor came aboard and made a prognosis about my predicament; it would require an operation but they could'nt do it because the hospital was not air conditioned and the perspiration would cause infection. I would have to wait until we were back up north. In the meantime the Bosun and me would have to live with it. We were in Manila for a couple of days and from what I heard ,from the local radio ,this was little America,all the DJ's had American accents and they played a lot of Elvis and other Rock greats. One of the lads brought some Manila rum aboard and gave me a few glasses of it ,by the third glass I was up and bopping to the King,
And as I was giving it large with the legs I noticed the doctor looking through the porthole. The bosun turned me to with a vengeance next morning,but it was pretty soon apparent that he would have to feed me some Manila Rum if I was going to be of any use.
Joe and me started to fall out with each other,it was a mutual dislike ,he thought I was malingering and I thought he was an incompetent tosser. But he was the boss.
When we got to Masinlok ,a beautiful little place of gleaming white sand, turquoise sea and swaying palms he made me get up and work while we docked. It was obvious I was incapable of doing any physical work and the gang I was working with let me be winchman. It was a Sunday and so would be overtime ,but I was'nt interested in that fact at that moment, all I wanted to do was keep alert and not make any foul ups,the pain was blinding and I was having a job to hold on. Billy saw the pain I was in and as soon as he could ,he let me go back to my cabin. That was another port I missed . We went up to Borneo after Masinlok,we were going to load the hardwoods of Sarawak. The lump started to shrink and I was able to work freely and without pain. The river Reyjang was where we were bound and our wharfingers were going to be Dayaks,famed for beheading their enemies and keeping their skulls in their long huts. They lived on a floating dormitory, a three decker with louvred wooden windows. They were skilled at their job and put those giant logs in places that you would have thought impossible. The Reyjang had a great rise and fall and was fast flowing,we moored out in the river and never got ashore,but what we could see from the ship was right out of Conrad, the dense jungle and the sounds of the wild creatures that dwelt within that green mass. The fishermen in their long prowed craft casting nets and the smoke rising above the trees gave the place a timeless air. Soon we were loaded and on our way back down the river ,as we were navigating the waterway we heard the sound of muffled thumping at number 6 hatch, as we got nearer we could hear a voice wailing ,plaintively. Opening the hatch we found a Dayak,all hot and sweaty,he must have had a catnap and missed all the palaver that accompanies the battening down and squaring away. A passing fisherman was hailed and our little Dayak docker was taken away by him.
Belawan next stop and then Singapore,we were on the homeward stretch,I never heard any more about the 2nd mate,all I knew was that he lived.
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